Skip to main content

Road Trip!

I teased this a little about two weeks ago, but now we're here and ready to talk about a little road trip that we took. The plan was simple: Get a place to stay near Florence (but not in Florence), have a good old-fashioned Italian farmhouse meal, and drive around Tuscany, mainly looking for hill towns.

In practice, it was at least that simple - maybe simpler.

You can't end up in a bad place. Everywhere is beautiful, even if it was a little hazy at times. It was February 28 when we left, so it was supposed to be cold, but we were going south without much knowledge of the elevation at-play on this trip. Our first stop answered some questions.


A sign on the highway pointed toward a (maybe) national park of the lakes Suviana and Brasimone. I don't know which on this actually is, but it was beautiful. We had a nice time tossing  rocks into the lake and watching the ice spider-web. Quite a setting.

We hopped back in the car, periodically pulling over to take photos, and made our way to San Gimignano. Before you walk into the main gate of the city, here's the standard Tuscan-view.


The town itself is famous for having about a dozen still-standing medieval defense towers. That and it's entirely car-free in the middle of town, so you really feel like you've gone back in time a bit - extra remarkable if it's one of your first stops in Europe.



Back in the car. Next stop, our Agriturismo. It's called I Viticci and they were lovely. They appeared to have olive oil production onsite and according to their site they produce wine, olive oil, jam and honey - all of which were displayed and available for us guests. We had an absolutely ridiculous 5-course meal: an appetizer plate, a pasta plate, bread, a meat-plate, and a dessert plate, plus all the bottled water and bottled wine we could want. It was awesome.

The only downside was that we had about 90 seconds of hot water in our shower. It was supposed to get fixed, and we mentioned it, and they said it was fixed, but no such luck.

The next morning we set off for the most impossible place in the world. Civita di Bagnoregio. It's an earth-island, if that makes any sense. And if it doesn't make sense, here's what I mean.


Everything about this place is insane. Streets end in cliffs, cats roam free, no one seems to live anywhere, and the dirt is freshly fallen on the cliff-sides. It's wonderful. Staring off into the distance seems unlike anywhere else in the country.


But as time ticked away, we got back in the car and headed for our next place. This time we would do a driveby of a town called Orvieto. It also lives on top of a wall of cliffs.


With nowhere to *actually* be but lost that we wanted to see, we just drove. The views across giant rolling-hill-valleys were wonderful, but it was hazy and the photos won't do it justice. We slowly made our way to a place called Castiglione del Lago on Lake Trasimeno. Had we taken the direct route, driving between here and Orvieto would've taken about 30 minutes. It took almost two hours instead.



Big castle. On a lake. At sunset. In central Italy. Life was good.

By the time we went back toward our agriturismo, we figured we ought to try seeing Florence lit-up at night.


Worth it.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Vienna Christmas, part 1

When I last left you, the two Koniecznys were about to arrive and we were going to do...well, something. And a week later we were all going to Vienna for Christmas to see some of my family members who live there (one of them is Norbert, who you might remember from canyoning). Carly and her mom got in on Sunday and we just kinda hung out the first day or two, but they wanted to see the sights and took off to see some nearby things and places, which is something they might tell you about if they were blogging but I don't think they are. Anyway, the real excitement started at the end of the week. Carly and her mom took an overnight train to Vienna on Thursday/Friday and Jenna and I had to wait until Saturday to go. We took a two-layover train; once in Verona to turn to the north and then a second stop in Innsbruck to switch onto an Austrian (OBB) train that would swoop through southeastern Germany en route to Vienna. It was a nearly 12 hour day of trains and, believe it or not, it...

New Year's Eve

One thing that seems to be a true worldwide phenomenon is the realization that my last name is used on New Year's Eve signs around the globe. At first I felt slighted, as if someone were cheapening the worth of my last name. In more recent years I've taken is as a weird sort of compliment and even occasionally tried to make it into a pseudo-attention-getting thing if I'm feeling very "look at me" on a particular day. But that's not what I'm supposed to tell you about because that's boring. What's not boring is that most of the big cities around the world do big exciting fireworks displays and celebrations that stretch way beyond a ball dropping down a pole and standing in a crowd of 500,000 people for nine hours. In short, New Year's in the states generally blows. In the northern US you either go overpay by insane amounts to go to a bar and then wait for three hours for a cab back home or you go to a friend's house and it's...fine. ...

Vienna Christmas, part 3

This is where things get a little extra interesting. Parts 1 and 2 were tame compared to how close I came to serious bodily harm in this, part 3. On the 26th of December we went to the zoo because we really had nothing else going on and had heard it was a nice zoo. It was pretty nice. That's about it. But we also began really hatching the plan to maybe go skiing on the 28th. I have never skied before in my life. Despite growing up in Ohio where it gets cold and despite having brothers who skied when they were younger and despite having a friend who was a really really really good skier who I'd go watch sometimes, I never did it. I'm still not sure why. Jenna has been on a couple of ski trips but those are the only times ever. Norbert is, iduno, a really good skier who lives in Austria and goes on week-long ski trips to crazy mountains without lifts and things. So this was a good group to get started with. The weather turned cold on about the 25th and that meant we...