Skip to main content

The Other Athens

Not the one in Ohio - I probably would've thought the same thing. No, I'm talking about the one in Greece. However, upon exiting the plane in Greece I happened to notice a man wearing an Ohio State shirt who informed me that his daughter was currently in Athens, Ohio, as a student. On Dads weekend. What a guy, huh?

Anyway, he also informed me that he was in town for the marathon, so we accidentally went to Athens on the weekend of the Athens Marathon. Oops.

I won't waste much time talking about what the city of Athens represents, because a bajillion websites can do that better than I can, I'll just say that it was the starting point of basically everything that we still use today. They started things, then the Romans tweaked them to become slightly better, and then they pretty much haven't changed in thousands of years, except now the internet tells me that everything in the world is getting worse.

So let's talk about 40 hours in Athens instead.

First, what a cool place to fly into. There are hills/mini-mountains all around and in the city, so you get a cool landscape. Second, the city is probably 15 miles from the sea, so you have water for added effect.

We hopped off the plane and waited for a train into the city, then had a tough time finding our hotel in a seemingly sketchy neighborhood. But we did find it, and it was crazy-cheap considering it was a big room with a balcony over the street.

The first evening was rainy. We had the best gyro we've ever had, with a side of fries and a drink, for about €3,50, so Athens was off to a really good start. We caught a glimpse of the Acropolis down the length of a main street and decided, why not trek up in the rain? What's the worst that could happen?

It was fantastic. We strolled up the long path between old ruin-sites and were almost entirely alone. Up near the gates that you enter the tourist-part is a huge rock formation that looks out over the city and there were exactly 0 other people around. We had a full 10-15 minutes of standing atop this rock - where people have stood for thousands of years, no doubt - and watching the storm off in the distance, with the majesty of the Acropolis all dolled up at night to our side. Of course, the rain meant I couldn't take any real photos, so you'll have to trust me on how great it was.

Next morning though, it was go time.

We were the 3rd and 4th people to pass through the gates and into the Acropolis. On the way up we walked past various sites like Hadrian's Library, the ancient agora, and the Roman Forum, but we were on a mission. We stopped only briefly to take quick photos of these things and what turned out to be my favorite thing in the city - the Temple of Hephaestus.


Upon going into the Acropolis (almost all of the outdoor ruins are available to enter on the same ticket, which is a paltry €12 or so, which i think is a great price), it was nearly empty, which was terrific. Although I have to admit that, for my taste, there's just too much reconstruction going on. The views from the top are terrific, and it's a mind-bender to realize people have been walking up and standing where you're standing for at least 2500 years, but the heavy machinery and clearly reconstructed everything takes a little bit away from it for me. To their credit, they're good about admitting and being up-front with what's redone and what's original. 

After stomping around for a bit and seeing the finish line of the marathon at the Olympic Stadium, we headed down to avoid the growing crowd. We popped into the Agora of Athens, which is mostly ruins and layouts on the ground, with some statuary and a brilliantly reconstructed building to show what the 2500 year old original would've felt and looked like. And from the second floor of this reconstruction is my fave: the Temple of Hephaestus. According to wikipedia, this temple was started in 449 BC and finished in 415 BC, and it's still standing in near-perfect condition, and looks like this.


Incredibly, the majority of the roof is still intact - basically unheard of for these ancient Greek temples. I couldn't get enough of this building and the Agora as a whole.

But we pressed on, visiting the Acropolis Museum (between gyros) for a mere 5 euros - gotta love the economic crisis in Greece! The museum basically took all of the fragile thigns from the Acropolis and put them inside somewhere safe. The good news is that you get to see all the originals, the bad news is that they're not where they used to be. You win some, you lose some. 

Next stop, the Temple of Olympian Zeus. This one is really something. Most of it is gone, but the parts that remain are impressive as you can only imagine what things looked like originally. 


The real Temple was much bigger than what's still standing, of course, but time wounds all things. Since we really only had one full day in Athens, we kept moving at a brisk pace. We watched the marathoners run past - which inspired us to talk about running a marathon until I got tired talking about it and needed an energy chew.

We also stopped at the aforementioned Hadrian's Library (they love Hadrian, the Roman Emperor, in Athens) and were surprised to see a few "wild" turtles roaming the area. We'd heard about the stray dogs in Athens, and there were a few, but the stray turtles were unexpected.


With daylight fading, we trekked up a big hill the name of which I can no longer remember, in hopes of seeing a majestic sunset above the Acropolis. To our dismay, it was a bit hazy (which was and is a theme of our entire stay in Europe), but we stuck it out for a bit anyway. See, Athens is sprawling in a way that few cities I've ever seen are sprawling. There wasn't a big sky-scraper downtown district, but there were miles upon miles of 5 to 8 story buildings of, I guess, apartments. It seemed to go on for days out there and was surely a nightmare to ever drive in.


While the sunset wasn't perfect, it wasn't bad either. To the left of center (stage right, that is), you can still make out the buildings of the Acropolis.


And so we retired for the evening, probably with another gyro or two - final tally was 5 over the 40 hours in Greece - and had a laugh at our hotel-room shower which drained into the middle of the bathroom floor.

Tears in our eyes and blisters on our feet, we slept and departed early back to Milan.

Next up, Verona, Italy. This post might cover a few of our experiences there, as I think we've actually gone three times now.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

I Have to Write about Basketball

I have about an hour to write out my thoughts about the NBA Finals since I didn't want to at 1 a.m. and I have to be at work soon (and I'll be there for a longer-than-normal day). So here goes. 1) Everyone wants to talk about Steph Curry, and everyone should  be talking about Steph Curry. I don't get it. He's the best shooter in NBA history - although Klay Thompson is hot on his heels - and yet there's something amiss at surprising times. I don't believe in "clutch" the way a lot of people do, because if Steph doesn't hit a million threes all the time, the Warriors are never in position for him to take a game-winner in the Finals (they also don't make the Finals). All of them are worth three points, so they need the first one as much as they need the last one. But something kind of happens, doesn't it? And doesn't it affect his legacy a tiny bit? Steph shot 34.3% on three-pointers this series. Toronto was all over  him defensivel

Vienna Christmas, part 1

When I last left you, the two Koniecznys were about to arrive and we were going to do...well, something. And a week later we were all going to Vienna for Christmas to see some of my family members who live there (one of them is Norbert, who you might remember from canyoning). Carly and her mom got in on Sunday and we just kinda hung out the first day or two, but they wanted to see the sights and took off to see some nearby things and places, which is something they might tell you about if they were blogging but I don't think they are. Anyway, the real excitement started at the end of the week. Carly and her mom took an overnight train to Vienna on Thursday/Friday and Jenna and I had to wait until Saturday to go. We took a two-layover train; once in Verona to turn to the north and then a second stop in Innsbruck to switch onto an Austrian (OBB) train that would swoop through southeastern Germany en route to Vienna. It was a nearly 12 hour day of trains and, believe it or not, it

1000 Words a Day, Day 15: This has been a hell of a week

Boy, it's been tough to catch my breath this week. This week saw a LOT of words go to NBA articles of mine. Two ended up getting published - this one and this one - and a third one hasn't yet seen the light of day because it needs to be reconfigured after the NBA trade deadline. The three of them were about 4500 words total, so that's something. Additionally, we've been dog-sitting for a german shepherd who spent her first 18 hours in our home strengthening every negative connotation I had of german shepherds. She effectively didn't stop whining even once the first night, while also occasionally barking like a lunatic and keeping us up all night. She's also super-high energy, which is fine if you're not used to having a dog that's part dog and part ottoman, like this angel. At any rate, the week has turned into waking up earlier than normal, throwing a ball 20x in the backyard, going for a 2+ mile walk, throwing the ball again as soon as I get